Strange shoes into fashion files

Ben Wang, April 11 hearing, from Dior's court-style ox horn shoes to Prada's ancient Roman gladiator shoes, from the shocking Nina Lizi no shoes to controversial Alexander McQueen's elephant shoes, full of creative High heels have replaced dresses and handbags in the past few seasons, becoming the most eye-catching fashion headlines. Shoe designer Cristi Ruboto said: "As a designer, I think that if you work in the fashion industry, you must weave dreams for women.

If you want to choose the most popular single product in the spring and summer of 2010, Alexander McQueen’s variant high heels inspired by marine life will definitely be on the list. In fact, since the Paris Fashion Week in October last year, discussions on this pair of shoes have been constant. Fashion critics and bloggers took a variety of aliases for it: elephants, crickets, pangolins, tanks, vases, monsters, aliens, Titanic... because even with higher shoes, they encountered Such a giant can only bow and bow. According to model Abi Li, she only glanced at the pair of shoes at the time and immediately pushed the catwalk invitation. This sentence then triggered more topics.

Three weeks after the end of the fashion week, when the pair of python skins of McQueen shows like foot shoes (the shoes were not put into production later) landed in the editorial department of “Vogue” British edition, the office once again made a big sensation. Fashion editors tried to try on it, took a ruler, and sent the photos online. "We don't even have a locker room to wear it. We really can't figure out how those models wear it and walk through the T stage. Admire!" The foot-like shoes measure an astonishing height of 12 inches - a total of 30 centimeters.

Interestingly, instead of being afraid, women are fascinated by it. At the 15th anniversary dinner of François Naire, aristocrat and fashion collector Daphne Quinn, wearing a pair of brown McQueen-like shoes, became the first person to wear the shoes at a non-reunion meeting. Previously, she also successfully challenged Nina's non-heeled shoes

(That is the farewell of Olivier Teskins.) When asked about the more difficult to wear the shoes of Li Zi and McQueen, she said "McQueen is lighter and Lizi is heavier." The reason is that the latter does not support the heel, so the platform is designed to be very heavy, causing the wearer's center of gravity to lean forward, and the pressure is concentrated on the toes, and it is not easy to fall backwards.

The public’s reaction to strange shoes is also very enthusiastic. Whenever Kinisse, Victoria Beckham, and 嘎嘎 嘎嘎 made new attempts, many consumers would call the brand to purchase the same money. This was unthinkable 15 years ago—the women at that time were still Dressed in regular heels. Today, however, "hate the sky" has long since become mainstream. The influence of the fashion show and the red carpet was too great. Everyone's vision changed overnight.

Lisa Armstrong, fashion editor of The Times of the United Kingdom, reviewed the development of high heels in this century in an article last year: “In the autumn and winter of 2002, Chow Jang-jee released a lace-up boot that was cut open. A brand new type of shoes—no high-heeled shoes for practical purposes—was followed, with clasps and tassels on the woman’s calf, and in 2005 we discovered that open-toed sandals can be worn in winter; The boots formally entered the summer wardrobe, and in 2007, the element of sexual abuse was so hot that the waterproof platform expanded like an optimistic economic situation to a height that was sufficient to overcome gravity.The thick bottom made the high-heeled shoes more elegant and elegant than ever before, Yves Saint Laurent With the 5-inch-high ultra-high-heeled shoes turned into a tidal brand. In 2008, the emergence of non-heeled shoes made everything more surreal."

A sudden economic crisis did not extinguish the designer's enthusiasm. On the contrary, the variation of the heel wave became more intense after 2008. In the past two years, we have witnessed the ever-changing heel – from Prada's flower-shaped heel, Dior's nude woman to Chanel's light bulb and Majila's nail heel; we have a brand-new structure for the building structure of shoes. Experienced - to see Selin's hollow iron shoes, Balenciaga's LEGO toy shoes, McQueen's pair of high-heeled shoes, Yves Saint Laurent's Eiffel Tower shoes. These novel, dramatic, dangerous high-heeled shoes occupy the T stage, dominate the magazines, and describe them as shocking and eye-catching.

Kirkwood believes that it is the designers who compete with each other to promote this trend. Every designer has the feeling that as soon as the height goes up, everything becomes more beautiful and more effective. Kirkwood said that as a result of the joint efforts of the fashion industry, a new era was born. After the “Itbag” was over, we ushered in the “Ishoe” with a higher threshold – more bold in terms of creativity. Really designed for the savvy people, but a series of problems followed: When does the designer's interest in high heels last? There is no end to the experiment in the shoes? The mad long heel can stop the development. That day?

At least on one thing, designers can reach a consensus that the current heel height has approached the peak of technology permission. Although the development of science allows designers to greatly expand the traditional heel range of 7 to 9 centimeters, everyone who breaks the heel should know that the higher the score, the greater the likelihood of breaking. "When designing a pair of high heels, the most technically important thing to note is to ensure a strong heel to withstand the weight of the wearer and a reinforced shoe so that the shoe does not crack." Director of Toronto BetaShoe Museum Elizabeth Semmelback said.

Most designers use a heel made of ABS polymer. ABS is the greatest invention of high-heeled shoes manufacturing. With it, heels can be made into various shapes while pursuing height. Kirkwood said. Bernhard Nickel's iconic slender heel, supported by a built-in steel needle, surrounded by ABS plastic, and polyurethane back cover. 5 steel nails pressed into the heel for further reinforcement by compressed air gun. Finally, a screw is fixed through the insole to the heel.Blarnik said: "To make a 115-millimeter heel, the most important thing is to master the balance. ”

Perhaps the best-known shoe designer of the past decade, Boranak, known for his "Sex and the City," is highly likely to respect tradition but will not be guaranteed in the next decade. Although the sandals with fine-edged decorative artificial gemstones brought confidence and beauty to Carrie's generation of women, they could no longer satisfy the appetite of a new generation of fashion lovers. In Hong Kong Lane Crawford's autumn and winter sales rankings, the top ten shoes - Givenchy decorated fur short boots, Yves Saint Laurent platform shoes - all have 5 inches high heel, publicity zipper or bandage The details call for a strong sexy.

By contrast, the retro style of Blarnik is too modest. When sheer high-heels could not produce news, Beranik still stuck to the 115-mm mark and refused to give in. He said: "The heel height of 115 mm is the limit for a woman to walk normally. Only shoes below this height are both comfortable and elegant and feminine."

The problem is that elegance and femininity are no longer the primary considerations for contemporary women when choosing high heels.

In November last year, at the invitation of the Bophut Goodman department store, Ruboto traveled to New York to meet with his 200 loyal customers. The women on the field were all wearing their beloved red-soled high-heeled shoes. The price of these shoes can easily reach over 3,000 US dollars and the height of the heel is 16 cm. "I wear it when I go to work and wear it when I go out to play in the evening." A 30-year-old Manhattan lawyer said excitedly at her black suede platform shoes. Why do contemporary women have such a serious love for shoes? In addition to the influence of designers and celebrities, fashion magazines are also the culprit. Karin Lofferd, French editor of Vogue, famously said: “Shoes are the most important in fashion blockbusters. Shoes determine the image, followed by hairstyles.” High-heeled shoes have the same status as skirts in her magazines, sometimes Don't hesitate to use a large block to advertise only one shoe. In real life, Robide, who has spent more than half a year, set a good example of wearing the heels of high-heeled shoes and ruppot boots.

Marc Jacobs believes that the reason why “hate high” is because it is the easiest item that women need to perform role play. “You can wear flat shoes today and wear high heels tomorrow. Your overall posture has changed. You can even change it every day.” Now, the role of high-heeled shoes is so significant that its limelight has almost covered clothing. Lubotto claimed to never design shoes for matching clothes: "When I was creating, I imagined a naked woman."

Nicole Feischlisi, vice president of Macy's Department Store, said: "The popularity of strong high heels has been a long time ago. However, this trend is more obvious now that the rock girl style is back."

Longman's new high-heeled shoes are pink and beige. Prada's pendants are made of plexiglass. They look sweet and pleasant, but they are still different from the plain heel shoes of the last century. Are these high heels designed to please men or scare them away? This is hard to say. For Ruboto, the key lies in the individual wearer. "For women who grew up in the world in the 1970s, high-heeled shoes were a bit of a shame. It meant stupidity and it only bowed to men. But some people knew how to use it. Today, what taste of high-heel shoes is worn depends entirely on you. Yourself."

Before joining the footwear design, Nicholas Kirkwood worked in the hat master Philip Tracy's shop for some time. Hats and shoes seem to have nothing to do with one foot, but the rebellious gene that Tsighi Sword walked to has been rooted in Kirkwood's creation. With his disdain for heel shoes, he set up his own brand of women's shoes in 2005. The architectural structure has always been Kirkwood's favorite in high-heeled shoes design, and also paid the most painstakingly. The idea of ​​decorating the platform with pearls is not merely for the sake of beauty, but is to actually integrate pearls into a part of the structure and to represent a woman who “steps on the pearl”. My way of working is to let a story continue in the course of a few quarters until I feel like I have finished the story. He said that with its structural innovation and his talent for proportions, Kirkwood earned himself the title of "Rupator successor." At that time he was only 28 years old.