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According to the German edition of the Financial Times, several European fashion brands, including Sweden’s H&M, C&A, and Tchibo, have been found using genetically modified (GM) cotton, sparking controversy over compliance with organic standards. This practice is considered misleading and violates regulations for genetically modified organisms (GMOs).
In a laboratory in Bremerhaven, Germany, director Lothar Kruse revealed that 30% of GM cotton samples tested had issues, potentially contaminating organic supply chains. These problematic fabrics are being returned to India, where more than half of the world’s organic cotton originates. In 2009, India produced around 107,000 tons of organic cotton, highlighting its global significance.
Sanjay Dave, head of India’s Ministry of Agriculture, mentioned that while the volume of affected goods is large, fines are now being imposed by third-party certification bodies like EcoCert and Control Union.
The question remains: who is truly responsible? As genetically modified crops become more widespread, cross-border cooperation on their use remains inconsistent. Fashion giants like H&M and C&A must take greater responsibility for ensuring transparency in their supply chains. Their current oversight appears insufficient, and they need to act swiftly to address the issue and minimize damage.
H&M has acknowledged the seriousness of the situation, noting that it led to a drop in sales of their organic product line. C&A has also pledged to conduct a deeper investigation. However, an H&M representative claimed they had no reason to believe their organic cotton came from genetically modified seeds, and criticized Control Union for lax oversight.
In response, APEDA stated that after surprise inspections of Indian organic farms, none were found using GM seeds, and all farms had taken measures to prevent contamination. Despite this, the debate continues, underscoring the need for stronger regulation and clearer accountability in the global fashion industry.
July 15, 2025