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According to the German edition of the Financial Times, Swedish fashion giant H&M, along with other European brands like C&A and Tchibo, has been found using genetically modified (GM) cotton. This practice is not only against regulations but also fails to meet international standards for GMOs. The issue has sparked a debate over transparency and responsibility in the global supply chain.
In a laboratory in Bremerhaven, director Lothar Kruse revealed that 30% of the GM cotton samples tested had contamination issues. These problematic fabrics are now being returned to India, which is a major supplier of organic cotton globally. According to the Organic Products Exchange, more than half of the world’s organic cotton comes from India. In 2009 alone, around 107,000 tons of organic cotton were sold in the country.
Sanjay Dave, head of India's Ministry of Agriculture, told the newspaper that the scale of the issue is significant, and current fines are being imposed by third-party inspection bodies such as EcoCert and Control Union.
So, who is truly responsible? As genetically modified crops become more widespread, cross-border cooperation on their use remains inadequate. Fashion companies like H&M and C&A have faced criticism for not adequately monitoring their overseas suppliers. Their lack of vigilance has led to this controversy, and they must take steps to address the issue and minimize damage.
An H&M spokesperson acknowledged the severity of the situation, noting that it affected sales of their organic product line. C&A also confirmed that they will conduct a deeper investigation into the matter.
However, an H&M representative insisted via email that the company had no reason to believe that its organic cotton came from genetically modified seeds. They criticized the Control Union for its lax oversight.
In response, APEDA stated that after surprise inspections of Indian organic farms, none of them used GM seeds. All farms had taken proper measures to ensure compliance with organic standards.
July 15, 2025