Miaoxiang sayings: The golden pheasant is in the feathers, and the Miao female is in the silver. When you walk in Miao Township, whether it is in a market that is crowded with people, or in the village lanes and mountain roads of stone paving, there will be two or three Miao Aya (women) and é»›pa (girls) wearing lace and silver ornaments. The national costumes that come into your eyes, especially the silver ornaments that are covered with silver and ringing, will definitely make your eyes shine. Miao people's silver jewelry The Miao people love silver jewelry, no matter where they live and multiply, clothing, especially silverware, has become a local highlight and cultural landscape. According to historical records, since the Qin and Han Dynasties, the Miao nationality's silverware civilization has come down in one continuous line, which is largely due to the interpretation of the Miao gold and silver mythology, such as the "Golden Money and Silver" circulated in Guizhou and the "Yangba Karma" circulating in Xiangxi. Wait. During the Tang and Song Dynasties, the Miao silver ornaments were based on multiple, large and heavy, and women wore large earrings and silver collars. The Ming Dynasty Fang Zhi said that the Miao people wore gold and silver earrings, and the rich also wore large collars. Although they were inherited from the Tang and Song Dynasties, they derived the function of distinguishing between marriage and giving gifts. After the reign of Emperor Yongzheng of the Qing Dynasty, Miao folks became slim, complex and refined after the “reform of the soilâ€. In particular, the Miao costumes in the eastern and western Hunan regions are even more exciting, which is most evident in young women. They often wear silver crowns, silver rings, silver clothes, silver bracelets, and silver chains on the feet. A costumed Miao woman whose weight is twenty or thirty pounds. According to Miao nationality expert Ma Mingjin and others, the Miao family used a lot of silver in their lives, especially women. There are three main things: First, the young men and women will be sentimental, and the man will send the woman’s silver bracelets and earrings as tokens. When the official marriage is done, if the man sends less than a certain amount of silver, he cannot marry. The second is that the Miaojia children are the parents' hope. The silver caps, bracelets, ankles, silver bells, and Luohan Bodhisattva are all made of new silver. In order to "long life and wealth, to exorcise evil spirits", Miao people from the juveniles and even middle-aged, in the hands, feet, ears and other places are tied to the right amount of é’ é’ é’. Second, the daily treasures of silver and silver deposits are the symbol of Miao's wealth. In daily life, it is common to use silver to make gifts. Third, the birthday or burial of the elderly is inseparable from silver or silver ornaments. Often, some old people have privately cherished their silver before their death. Up to now, the number of silver used by the Miao people in the border area of ​​Hunan and Jiangxi has increased. Some people have investigated in the remote counties such as Fenghuang and Huayuan. The average family sent silver to the bride about four or fifty-two before the reform and opening up. In recent years, it has increased to one or two hundred and two, and it has to be made into headwear, collars and bracelets. Rings, earrings, clasps, silver belts, toothpicks, shawls and other accessories, in short, "with silver as the knot, silver as the color, silver as the proud, silver as the expensive" has become an important symbol of the Miao nationality is different from other ethnic groups. Miao Qing, a professor at Guizhou Nationalities University, believes that silver buds sprouted in the early witchcraft totem activities of the Miao society, originated in the Han Dynasty, matured in the Tang Dynasty, enriched in the Ming and Qing dynasties, and developed in modern and contemporary times. In the same branch of the same ethnic group, silver ornaments become the identification symbols of the ethnic group. As a cult object, silverware binds the children of the same ancestor closely; as a symbol of marriage, it brings good order to people's marriage and love life; as a witchcraft, it psychologically provides people with life safety. sense. Therefore, the Miao silver ornament is not a simple ornament, but a cultural carrier rooted in the social life of the Miao. Type and process Because the Miao people live in a wide range of home and abroad, the variety of silver ornaments is also diverse. The Miao people in Guizhou and Xiangxi are the most representative. The main ones are: silver crown, silver corner, silver comb, silver earrings, trembling, silver earrings. Silver collar, silver necklace, silver collar, silver bracelet, silver ring, silver foot ring, etc. There are symmetrical, balanced, connected and radial structures. The process methods include casting, beating, knitting, engraving, and engraving. The patterns are mostly composed of animals and plants such as dragon and bird, vivid and exquisite. The most popular types of silverware are the first in the southeastern region of Guizhou, followed by the Xiangxi area. There are fewer Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guizhou dialects in the west. In the southeastern part of Guizhou, the most popular silver accessories are the one-piece, Shi-style, Huang-ping, Xijiang-style, and Dayang-style costumes. For example, the leather version of women’s body is more than 300. In the style of adjustment, women have more than 30 pieces of silver from head to toe. According to a dressing Miao female in the border area of ​​Hunan and Hunan, the whole body decoration part is roughly like this: the head has a phoenix chain, a silver phoenix phoenix, a silver horn silver comb, a tangled silver chain, a flower arrangement silver bird; Silver Marathon, Bodhisattva, Goddess of Mercy, silver plaque, head bells, etc.; earrings with silver earrings, dragon-shaped body ring, needle flower earrings, claw earrings, pomegranate earrings, silver earrings; neck with wheels Article collar, twisted wire collar, flat group collar, disc collar, various necklaces, etc.; silver shawl, cloth silver shawl, shoulder card, sling silver bell, etc. on the shoulder; chest and waist with pressure collar, hanging Button chain, hanging neck toothpick, silver lock silver chain, silver shield tag, embellished silver flower, silver waistband, silver belt around the waist; back with a bubble back card, hanging bell box; arm has life-saving silver plaque, Rich and precious; the wrist has a solid round bracelet, a hollow flower bracelet, a faucet square bracelet, a twisted silk bracelet, a flower bracelet, etc.; the finger has a single ring, a multi-strand ring, a seal ring, etc.; the wheel has a rim and a silver plaque Silver chain, hanging bell, etc. In addition, there are a variety of silver button plaques, syringe board, butterfly chip patch, floral silver block, pendant bells and so on. The above-mentioned various silver ornaments can be divided into two categories according to their production: thick parts such as buckle necklace, solid collar, solid bracelet, big ring earrings; and more delicate bubble collar, chain bubble bracelet, diamond flower Collars, diamond bracelets, etc. The fine pieces include silver-crowned silver tits, arhat bells, shawl toothpicks, etc., which are exquisite in craftsmanship and consume more silver. For example, if the long-tailed silver crown (that is, the dragon cap) is made of silver thirty-two, after the silver plate is nailed on the thick cloth with limited area, the silver flower, silver bird, silver butterfly, silver needle, silver should be welded on the silver piece. Signature and other bouquets; a pair of silver long feathers or an umbrella-shaped silver flower on the top of the hat, the rim of the dragon, the pattern, the arhat and the flying butterfly squid; the back of the hat is about 10 feet long. Hanging chains of silverworms, fish, birds, beasts, flowers, and vines. The female shawl should be made with more than 20 silver. It is necessary to embellish the silver tablets of various dragons, phoenixes, lions and flowers on the satin blank mold, and then put a few silver chains that are meshed into a mesh. It is necessary to hang three or so inches of silver whiskers or bells. As for the production process, it is generally subjected to five processes of blowing, forging, setting, scrubbing and polishing. According to the need, the silversmith first made the smelted silver into thin slices, silver bars or silver wires, and used the techniques of casting, beating, knitting, engraving, engraving, etc. to make beautiful patterns, and then welding or weaving. Simple, small pieces of silver are made faster, while carved collars or silver hats take five or six days. If you want to make silver tablets, it is more laborious. You have to spread the silver bars into large sheets, then cut them into small pieces as needed, put them into a mold and press them into a thick pattern, and then stick them on the turpentine. The board is chiseled into a detailed pattern. The processing of Miao silverware is done manually by family workshops. In addition to being an expert in the hammering work, the Miao silversmith is also a master in the design. She is good at drawing inspiration from women's embroidery and batik patterns, and based on traditional habits and aesthetic tastes, in detail and partial portrayal. Innovate. After the silversmith's exquisite design and processing, the pieces of silver are unique. Especially worth mentioning is the “staying four-ring plum blossom ringâ€, which is like a modern small cube. It consists of four links, each with a “<†shape, folded flat at 90 degrees, and decorated with several plum blossoms. . Each ring is interlaced and can be combined. If the ring is separated, it is difficult for unfamiliar people to recover. Silversmith and hand workshop From ancient times to the present, the craftsmanship of Miao silver jewelry has gone from rough to perfect. These amazing folk art wonders are handmade by silversmiths. Artists who are engaged in the production of silverware in Miaoxiang are generally divided into two types: sitting silversmiths and mobile silversmiths. When farming, the silversmiths farmed when they were busy, when they were farming, they joined the arts, the agronomy, the wife and the son, and the life was richer than the average farmer. The mobile silversmiths are mostly young and middle-aged, and their heads are not complicated. They often shoulder shoulders and walk through the villages to get people's hospitality. The villages of Leishan County in Guizhou Province have the largest number of mobile silversmiths, such as Zhibai, Mawu, Wugao and Jiujiang in Taijiang County. Only one village was controlled, and there were 202 households with 263 silversmiths. It is rumored that the village has a silversmithing process since the Qing Dynasty. Later, it was increasingly popularized by fathers, pro-parents, and friends. The silversmiths who walked out of the village traveled throughout Guizhou, Guangxi, Hunan and other provinces. They served the Miao compatriots while also producing silver ornaments for the Yi, Buyi, Shui, Yao, Zhuang and Han ethnic groups. So far, a small control village has set up a number of silver ornaments in the province and even in Beijing, Shanghai, Dalian and other places, only 70 of the province's Kaili City. The Miao silver ornaments are rich and colorful, and the Tiancheng rhyme is like a beautiful poem written in silver. So pure, so timeless, it is endless and endless.
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November 17, 2020