Men need more fabrics

When fashion designer Yang Guanhua goes to Paris every time, the most worrying issue is the problem of overweight luggage. After completing her design studies in Paris, Paris became the best place for her to purchase fabrics. Usually her return to the country's luggage, rare shopping results, fabrics is the protagonist.

The appearance of high street fashion brands such as ZARA and H&M has broken the important rules of the fashion circle for a long time. It has made design the most concerned element of stylish youth. But in fact, in the field of high-grade garments, fabrics are the key. Those cheats that keep classic styles for many years selling are: insist on using superior materials.

Young women need a stylish design, but for older women who choose fewer and fewer, good fabrics can retain more customers for the brand. The consensus among these customers is that 80% of good clothes depend on the quality of the Fabric.

Men's clothing is even more so, and most of the time, it has no difference in age. The Italian Ercole Botto Poala is in the fashion industry, but he does not care about what new styles men wear. Single-breasted or double-breasted, that is the designer's choice. As the CEO of REDA, he is more concerned about what suits made from fabrics can make it take out from the trunk without wrinkles at the moment - it is also a problem for many men. A suit in a mall that satisfies this condition requires a set of at least 8,000 yuan. Brands using REDA fabrics include HUGO BOSS, CANALI, and even Zegna, which started with fabrics.

Why does a good fabric's clothing not expensive?

An extreme example may explain the quality of good fabrics. A few years ago during the vigorous campaign to defend the Tibetan antelope, people opposed the capture of the Tibetan antelope. However, the ** was repeatedly prohibited. The direct cause of poachers taking the risk is their lucrative profits. A scarf made of Tibetan antelope wool has excellent thermal performance, but the thickness can be passed through a ring.

For wool fabric manufacturers who make suits, they also value the sheep where the wool comes from. Inner Mongolia's wool in Ordos, Australia and New Zealand are all recognized as the world's premier wool producing areas. Italian fabric brand LORO PIANA also awards these wool producers each year, encouraging them to produce finer wool. The finer the woven fabric of wool, the more comfortable it feels.

There are only one answer to the question of how consumers can tell whether a fabric is good or bad – that is, to buy more. Only oneself can try to understand the differences in the gloss and softness of the expert's mouth on different fabrics. If you don’t buy it, shopping in multiple stores will be OK. Otherwise, there is no way to understand how cashmere can have silky luster.

The development and investment of top brands for fabrics are beyond imagination. Within Ralf Lauren and CANALI fashion brands, there are special departments responsible for researching which fabrics brands use in the next season. According to their own needs, they make demands on professional fabric manufacturers like REDA, and they jointly discuss the colors and patterns used in the next season. Fabric brands need to use all the technical means to meet this requirement. It is said that an Italian fabric brand used to polish diamonds into powders and weave them in wool. In order to increase the gloss of the fabrics, the suit made of such top fabrics is naturally astronomical. However, there are still many nobles waiting in line for customization in Europe.

The lace fabrics that often appear in haute couture dresses are one of the most expensive fabrics in that it may be the result of several months of manual labor by several workers. If it is not the French government’s policy protection, these hand-woven industries may no longer match the tide of machine weaving. Expensive hand-woven fabrics can only be used today by quality-conscious haute couture ladies. The textile factory in a small town in the northern French province, however, requires that there be no one kilometer and no node on the one-kilometer Cloth. In the fashion world, perfection and price often complement each Other.

In addition, as the textile industry is one of the industries with the most serious environmental pollution, the fashion industry has also increasingly attached importance to environmental issues. Good fabric companies try to change these bad impressions and use more advanced technology equipment. For most Chinese consumers, the safety of fabrics is as much a concern as food safety. No one wants clothes to ruin their skin health. Good fabrics will reduce damage to the environment during production and processing as well as waste disposal. The adoption of more stringent standards will undoubtedly increase the cost.

But now, Ercole Botto Poala is not sure that these environmentally-friendly fabrics will be the mainstream of the future. How many people will pay for expensive environmental protection prices?

Designers based on fabrics usually know more about fabrics than consumers. The fabrics Yang Guanhua brought back to Beijing from Paris are the fabrics used by Dior and Lacroix's haute couture. “A good fabric can inspire designers. If you only know how to draw a sketch but no fabric can achieve the design concept, then you can't call it a good designer. The fabric is the basis of all ready-to-wear garments. Better quality to consumers."

Yang Guanhua’s research on fabrics is almost obsessive. In Shanghai, the place she must visit is not Tiantianfang in Xintiandi, but Dongjiadu, the local fabric market. In order to find suitable fabrics, she has to run in cities such as Hangzhou, Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Tianjin. Since she is an independent small family, she always buys cloth more expensive than others. In her view, these costs are necessary. In the past, she created a second-line brand that is more suitable for young people, uses some common fabrics, and is cheaper. Today, she stopped the brand, "because after touching the fabric, I know too well that the fabric gives me more room to play. It reflects the idea of ​​the design very well. It's like a Good teamwork."

However, good fabrics are also like bad-tempered aristocrats, who need to wait. In the traditional men's wear field where imagination is difficult to use, the requirements for designers are even higher. Ercole Botto Poala praised wool as God's best natural fiber for humans, but at the same time wool is one of the worst fabrics. Wool is easy to wrinkle, is bitten by insects, but also deformed, pumping water, to make the performance of wool more stable, sometimes blending is not a bad thing. Traditional wool suits require far more tailoring than fashion design, and inexperienced masters can't combine pieces of cloth into a perfect suit. He had to know where the sleeves were most suitable for sewing, and it would not make people feel uncomfortable. A good suit had a lot of manual work at the waist stitching, and many places had to be straightened to be ironed. The ironing method should also be particularly stressful. These details are almost invisible from the appearance. You can only visually judge whether it fits. Only good fabrics and good craftsmanship can best modify the figure. If you change to a novice to repeat the above steps, you will take a wrong step and a good fabric will cost you. In these workshops, the cost of fabrics is equal to the cost of labor. In factories that do not pay attention to design, the cost of fabrics can sometimes be much higher than that of labor.